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Moscow - Warming Up After the Cold War August, 2008
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Moscow is an intoxicating affront to your senses – love it or hate it, this city is a digestible history lesson with notable landmarks from the past scattered all around you. Prolonging the paranoia practices of the old regime, it tentatively reaches out to tourists while bureaucratically imposing strict visa requirements. Mandating fixed entry and exit dates, then tracking and registering your every night does not encourage independent travel in this part of the world. Fortunately, we stopped here as part of our Trans Mongolian train trip, where visa requirements were handled by the agency office in Hong Kong. Nonetheless, reeking in history, intimidating, intriguing and impressive, this eroded super power is high on our list of traveler’s destinations, and certainly worth a visit. Ground zero for the Cold War,
historic, picturesque and essential Red Square is the epicenter of
Moscow. Passing through the red bricked Voskressensky Gates and crossing
over the cobble stoned entry, you can’t help but reflect on how this
country was our sworn enemy for so many years. Proudly this square was
used to extravagantly parade the military might of this nation while
smugly proclaiming the virtues of Communism. Who doesn’t recall the
former leaders of this superpower - Lenin, Stalin, Khrushchev, Brezhnev,
Gorbachev, Yeltsin and Putin, all indelibly etched in our consciousness.
Ironically, Red Square is now bordered by Gucci, Armani and other designer stores on one side and Lenin’s mausoleum on the other. Surely, he must be rolling over in his grave I thought, as we queued up one morning to file past his body, reverently swathed in red velvet in a rather simple and subdued setting. At the far reaches of the square sits the majestic and Disneyland like St. Basil’s Cathedral (built 1561) with its fabled onion domes, whose architects and designers were blinded after construction was completed by Ivan the Terrible to insure its uniqueness. So much history in such hallowed grounds, it was inspiring to inhale the centuries of traditions and tread where so many world leaders had walked before. Bordering Red Square is the infamous and somewhat disappointing Kremlin (from the 1150’s), the once secretive and vital nexus of Russian policy. Here there are a half dozen Russian Orthodox churches you can visit, with many other official government buildings off limits and heavily guarded by stern and gloomy military personnel. While it’s shortsighted to come to Moscow and not go to the Kremlin, prepare to be under whelmed at $15/person, as we thought it overrated, with Red Square certainly more intriguing. Built back in the 1930’s and 1940’s, the Metro system is not as spiffy and modern as Hong Kong or Shanghai, but more than makes up for it in extraordinary character. With 15 lines and 150 stations, it’s convenient and efficient with trains scheduled every three minutes. Lacking modern self service ticketing kiosks, you’re treated to the rare pleasure of queuing in line to buy your tickets from a frumpy Soviet woman who grumpily dispenses your tokens with nary a smile or acknowledgement as if it’s your fault she’s there and not at home boiling cabbage and potatoes and watching state run TV.
The Metro itself is clunky yet durable in the lovable style of the Soviets, with tunnels hundreds of feet underground and people transported downwards on aged industrial strength escalators built between the two World Wars. A rattletrap of heavy gauge metal bolted together during the regime of Stalin in the 1930’s, it’s remarkable these subways are still in service after all these years. Careening down the tracks at haphazard speeds, the entire carriage swaying and rocking on 75 year tracks, its raucous and timeless and next to impossible to talk to the person next to you because of the substantial decibel levels. Hang on, because the acceleration is uneven and immediate and the deceleration sudden and unexpected. Bouncing around on this relic is the most fun we’ve had since the public buses in Indonesia. While visiting the monastery
Novodevichy Convent, we were drawn to the cemetery next door, which
turned out to be one of the more surprising and memorable sites we’ve
seen on our trip. The final resting place for war heroes, politicians,
literary figures and other people of importance, the grave sites are
unique in their artistic design. Blocks of marble or granite chiseled
into life sized images of the deceased, or perhaps just a bust of their
head, every row of tombstones brought exclamations of surprise and
wonderment, as we wandered up and down in rapt appreciation, a seemingly
ordinary burial ground filled with such monuments of immortality. Moscow is best appreciated by hitting the streets and wandering around, as there are many classical churches and old European inspired buildings on every block (even the grocery store across the street from our hotel was a historic building). Search out the feared and mysterious KGB headquarters, clearly marked on our tourist map, with darkened windows and imposing metal bars in a timid and innocent brick structure. Discover the impressive Church of Christ the Savior, elegant and reverent, before visiting the Pushkin Museum across the street. Many of the Orthodox churches are free and open to the public, a wonderful way to appreciate the cultural richness of this fine city. Fortunately, Moscow is fairly compact, with most of the tourist sites conveniently clustered near Red Square. Unfortunately, Moscow is expensive, although probably no more than New York or London. Our Marriott Hotel attempted to extort $40/day for internet access with even meals at McDonald’s approaching $15 for two people. We were able to convert hotel points for a couple of free nights, so accommodation cost was moderated in that regard. However, food is expensive and there is a definite lack of street vendors available, somewhere you can grab a cheap bite to eat – a hot dog or a quick sandwich. Souvenir shops are no bargains, even though I longed for one of those classic CCCP t-shirts for $25, with seemingly everyone selling those wooden dolls within dolls, all notably made in China. Moreover, admission to the popular sites can get expensive, so get a good guidebook and check their recommendations. One thing that isn’t expensive
is the alcohol, a somewhat sobering reality in everyday Moscow, with
cheap beer and vodka sold at every little claustrophobic corner store
and outdoor vendor. Because of the low cost and availability, many
people walk around with open containers of beer or vodka, with empty
bottles overflowing the trash receptacles and littering the public
spaces. Perhaps it’s their disillusionment with life, as there are
obviously many wealthy people in Moscow, yet so many more that don’t
share in this prosperity and probably never will.
With ongoing political unrest, undeveloped economic market structures, and a nagging repressive political structure, Russia has a ways to go to fulfill a true free society. Relaxing the onerous visa requirements and encouraging more tourism would certainly be a step in the right direction. Still, Russia lacks the thriving vitality and bustling economic energy so evident in China. Stimulating and packed with history, bureaucratic yet deep down lovable, the people of Russia just now taste the fruits of capitalism and freedom. A repressive and socialist country trying to shirk off its failed communist pedigree, it has the potential, but only time will tell if it has the willpower and initiative. Ultimately, Moscow was a curious and fascinating city for us, with legendary sites entrapped in centuries of history and mistrust. Moscow is every adjective in the dictionary except cheap, yet certainly worth a visit.
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With a Tony Soprano meets Boris
Yeltsin reputation, we weren’t sure what to expect after arriving in
this capital city following our 5000 mile train trip across the
heartland of Russia. Six dollar big Macs, gorgeous stiletto heeled women
right off the set of a 007 movie, midnight sunsets, a hundred brands of
vodka in your local convenience store, muscled pistol packing bodyguards
in body armor guarding the many Ferraris, Mercedes and Land Rovers, pin
striped businessmen on cell phones and all night dance clubs, not to
mention the KGB, Kremlin and Red Square.
Arriving at each Metro platform
is like stepping into a time capsule – Mayakovskaya (built 1938) with
it’s patriotic mosaic themes emblazoned on the ceiling, Komsomolskaya
(1935) - elegantly festooned with crystal chandeliers and marble,
Ploshchad Revolyutsii (1938) and its 76 life sized bronze figures,
Novoslobodskaya (1952) elaborately adorned with remarkable stained glass
windows (in a subway station!!!) and Kropotkinskaya (1935) encased in
marbled walls and accented with marbled columns. For the cost of a 75
cent ticket, hop on and off for a couple of hours and visit the more
unusual and artistic Art Deco stops. 
