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Nong Khiaw - Down By The River February, 2008 |
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Exceeding our expectations, the Nong Khiaw River Resort, with its ‘Heavenly beds’, picturesque setting, and total serenity, provided a perfect retreat for a few days. Across from our room was a massive limestone rock face at least 2000’ in height, rising straight out of the river, with no obvious paths to the summit, and I wondered if any rock climbers had ever attempted this ascent. Nong Khiaw is somewhat off the tourist track, with most people sticking to the well trodden Vientiane – Vang Viang – Luang Prabang circuit, yet here you have the opportunity to trek to authentic Lao villages or do nothing but sit on the deck and watch river time pass beneath. We had intended to make a loop
through northern Lao, but found this area so beautiful and so compelling
that we decided to stay here rather than One day we walked about an hour and a half to a small village on the banks of the river. Again, all the kids ran out to greet us, so charming and so genuine. One local guy, who had a bit too much Lao Lao whiskey, kept trying to talk us into boat trip – I’m not sure where –but we judiciously declined his kind offer. He then tried to tempt us with a lunch of rice, which we begged off, before finally offering a shot of homemade whiskey, again politely refused. We continue to be amazed at the joyousness and total innocence of the kids in the villages. They do not beg, although if you take their picture, they do know the word ‘money’, and we give them 1000-5000 kip (10 cents – 50 cents). Another day we walked to the local cave and waterfall – seems every village has their own cave and waterfall – passing through two other local communities. Children were standing around a tree while the oldest beat the tree with a long pole. Suddenly they chased after something unseen, everyone converging in an eager group bent over their prize. It seems they were rousting grasshoppers from the trees, then pouncing on them as they landed on the ground. Both a source of entertainment and a source of food.
The restaurant at the Nong Khiaw River Resort provided a wonderful afternoon deck for happy hour, wonderful food, sporadic WiFi access, and talking to other guests. There are a number of other guesthouses in town, though all a step down from this one. This is a great little town, with authentic Laotian vibes, and access to further reaches of northern Lao. Ina few days, we will head upriver to sample some of the more remote locations. But, for now, we will enjoy our time in Nong Khiau, the settlement down by the river.
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Four
hours north of Luang Prabang you will find the delicious little hamlet
of Nong Khiaw astride the beautiful Nam Ou River. On the recommendation
of a fellow traveler, we headed north from Luang Prabang on four-hour
minibus journey, a kaleidoscope of stunning scenery passing by our
windows as we weaved our way along the river, not knowing what to expect
when we arrived. 
spend
time on local buses. There is yet another settlement, one hour north by
boat only, that we will also travel to, but for now, we are appreciating
some of the finest mountainous vistas one could ever see. 
We
have become accustomed to the chickens, pigs, and dogs roaming
everywhere, and are not surprised to see a pig in residence under a
bamboo house. Nor are we surprised to see a ready to milk cow tied to
the stoop outside the front door. Still, we are amazed when we see a
satellite dish pointing to the heavens on every other flimsy hut, while
hunched over children haul loads of broken branches and women carry
buckets of water, or wash their clothes along the road. 
