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Singapore

December, 2007

Singapore is modern, clean, safe, and it has great shopping and food. After spending two months in Indonesia, this was as great in contrast as one can get. From a country striving to break its third world shackles, to one already standing on top of the economic heap, Singapore is a strange blend of cultures, a melting pot of Asian influences, yet a unique nation unto itself. After spending a week here, I’m still not sure I understand what Singapore means.

It’s characterized as an island city-state, a distinction it shares with Monaco and Vatican City, yet stands as the fifth wealthiest country in the world. Its official languages are English, Chinese, Malay and Tamil. Occupied by Japan, colonized by the British, merged with Malaysia, it’s been independent since 1965. Located on the tip of the Malaysian peninsula, it’s the period of an exclamation mark, an emphatic declaration of independence and prosperity.

Comfortably ensconced in the Sheraton on Orchid Road, we spent our days wandering though this atmospheric city, checking off the must-see attractions, and savoring the rich history this metropolis so proudly offers on its sleeve. Gawking our way through the many malls, they seamlessly connect as you pass underground, a never ending narcotic shopping experience. From the Gap to a vintage violin shop, the variety is endless, appealing, and hard on your budget.

Shocked into frugality, we both were taken back by the $22 bar tab for two tiger beers, as we sat under the muggy skies and watched a regional soccer match on the big screen TV’s in Clarke Quay. Next door, a trendy bar pretended to be an out patient surgical center, as patrons sat in wheelchairs and ordered IV’s of booze. We toured Little India, the Muslim Quarter and Chinatown, carted our souvenirs back to the hotel, and headed out to eat more food.

Because we were there in December, Orchard Road was lit in all its magnificence, and local buses loaded passengers for a free thirty minute tour of the lights. Choral groups attracted crowds as they sang favorite holiday melodies on the bright and joyous evenings under the stars. The night zoo afforded an opportunity to see wild animals in nocturnal settings. Carefully wandering the backlit trails, we were staggered by the guttural roar of the lions, so loud, so shocking, and so unexpected. Expensive, but worth the trip.

Another day we headed to Sentosa Island, at one time I’m sure an attractive natural attraction. Nowadays, it tries to morph into a new Disney World, with phony attractions tucked into what remaining woods remain. A monstrous construction project is underway as you arrive on the island, with the biggest hole in the ground I have ever seen. Honestly, we were disappointed. Why go and ruin this beautiful island?

Perfect subways, perfect weather, perfect food, perfect shopping, Singapore is the urban Stepford wife. There’s everything to love and few things to fault. Perhaps it is the world’s best designed and most efficient city. Yet, somewhere it’ lacking soul, that intangible we found in Hong Kong and Shanghai. Would I return? Probably not. A refreshing dose of civility and freshness against the backdrop of two months in Indonesia, we loved our ten days in Singapore. Next stop, Malaysia, and the intriguing city of Kuala Lumpur.

If You Go:

Getting There:

We arrived in Singapore on a flight from Jakarta, a quick one hour skip across the ocean at a cost of $40/each.

Sleeping

Le Meridien, Orchard Road, Singapore - Great location, we cashed in hotel points and spent ten days here.

Dining:

Best food in the world.

More Information:

Singapore is great, don't get me wrong. We just liked the character of other bigger cities better. Once you've made the rounds of the city, I don't see why I would return. And certainly don't miss the night zoo.