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Ubud, Indonesia - Love in the Paddies October, 2007 |
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When I say amazing accommodations, I really do not do it justice. We had a two-story guesthouse, all nicely tiled, with windows all around. With incredible vistas, friendly owners, wonderful breakfast served on our patio, and coffee and hot water all day long, it was one of our better stays at the bargain rate of $18/day. During the day, we took walks through the rice fields or headed downtown where there are abundant restaurants, art galleries and assorted gift shops. At the end of our street was a spa, where for two dollars each, we treated ourselves to foot massages. Across the street is a pool, where for a buck, you can use the facilities on a hot day. It was such a lovely location we extended our stay. We slept with the sound of frogs in the paddies and woke each morning to the sounds of a thousand crowing roosters. Inventive homemade contraptions spun in the wind, producing clacking and clicking sounds, intended to scare the birds from the rice stalks. Long funnels of brightly colored silk wound in the breezes, in yet another beautiful attempt to thwart the opportunistic-feathered friends. It is at once so lovely and so peaceful, that you will not want to leave. On our daily walk to the
internet café, we passed by three women who transferred dirt from a hole
in the street to an unknown destination back in Bali has a disproportionate number of canines running around the streets, although they do seem docile and friendly enough, despite their flea bitten appearance. Somewhere in the past they must have evolved from the same pedigree lineage, since they all look alike except for a slight difference in coloring. The owner of our guesthouse proudly beamed as he showed off a nice collection of wooden bowls packed in cardboard boxes destined for export to America. Pointing to a muddy path that led downhill through the banana fields, he encouraged us to visit his factory. After a 15-minute walk, we came upon a dozen workers in a ramshackle outbuilding, a single Romex electrical supply snaking through the underbrush and providing power for their tools. Canvas overhangs sheltered them from the sweltering heat, as their sweaty skin was caked with layers of sawdust. Grinding away tree stumps, they were magically transforming them into serviceable bowls and furniture, as stacks of completed wood items lay strewn about the floor.
Taxi drivers use their family
vehicle for transport to avoid paying an official taxi tax of over $500
per month! However, they do risk being fined if stopped by the police,
since it is evidently illegal to transport tourists in a family vehicle.
It happened to our driver one day, and he slipped the police The majority of people own scooters or motorcycles. There is a helmet law, although few people observe it. It is not uncommon to see families on one bike, with the mother holding a small child and the father driving. You do need to be careful when crossing the streets, since the bikes do not stop for pedestrians. Moreover, a visit to Ubud would not be complete without heading to the end of Monkey Road and visiting the resident monkey population. Be forewarned – these guys are cunning thieves and will quickly pounce on your sunglasses, water bottle, or anything else that is loosely available for them to snatch. You see many monkeys in Indonesia, so the initial thrill of ‘aren’t they cute’ quickly dissipates. Besides, you do not want to be bitten by a monkey; they are not so cuddly with their yellow fangs and aggressive attitude. We were on constant alert as we walked through the Monkey Forest, and would caution you to do the same. Ubud, though touristy, is well worth a visit, and remains one of my favorite destinations. A winning combination of a wonderful guesthouse, beautiful countryside, interesting sites, variety of food, and cultural ambiance lends itself to a perfect visit. Still I hear those croaking frogs and the click-clack of the curious bird chasers, envision the swirl of the silken funnels, and smell the rich earth of the flooded rice paddies.
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We
arrived in the cultural and artistic center of Bali a few days ago. The
village of Ubud is located inland amid the famous photos of rice fields
that are traditionally associated with Bali. Here Marge was quick to
score amazing accommodations on a quiet street surrounded by rice
paddies. Make no mistake about it, Ubud is very touristy, although we
did concentrate on finding accommodations on the fringe of town, away
from the main section of downtown.
the rice paddies. Affectionately named the ‘dirt ladies’, they balanced
baskets of dirt on their heads that must have weighed at least fifty
pounds. All day long, they continued to make the trip, filling their
baskets, then carrying them away. By the time we left, the hole in the
street had become quite large, although we never did figure out its
purpose.
There
is very little public transportation on the island of Bali and the
easiest way around is by taxi. As you walk the streets, it seems
everyone will offer to drive you somewhere, and the word ‘transport’
quickly is answered by ‘no’. You are constantly responding to this as
you walk down the road. From across the way, a potential driver will
hold his hands as if gripping a steering and query – ‘transport?’
Alternatively, someone on a motorcycle will twirl their wrist as if
twisting the throttle on their motorbike and ask ‘transport’. I swear
this must be the first word that a Balinese person learns. If you
decline, it is quickly followed by ‘tomorrow?’ Local merchants are also
very aggressive, with many hounding you as you browse through the
merchandise. Indonesians are the very worst when it comes to aggressive
hawking- you are constantly repeating ‘no, thanks’ with every step you
take, so much so, that it becomes almost comical after a while.
officer a few dollars along with his registration. 
